摘要: 烘焙食品在我國(guó)居民膳食結(jié)構(gòu)中所占的比重越來(lái)越大，然而，其能量密度高、營(yíng)養(yǎng)素密度低的特點(diǎn)不符合人們對(duì)健康膳食的需求，迫切需要通過(guò)配方改良賦予烘焙食品營(yíng)養(yǎng)均衡和保健的功能，從而促進(jìn)我國(guó)烘焙產(chǎn)業(yè)升級(jí)。本文提出烘焙食品的營(yíng)養(yǎng)缺陷健康安全風(fēng)險(xiǎn)，分析實(shí)施烘焙食品的減脂、減糖、減鹽和營(yíng)養(yǎng)功能強(qiáng)化策略所面臨的技術(shù)瓶頸，探討在健康烘焙食品中優(yōu)化營(yíng)養(yǎng)標(biāo)簽、補(bǔ)充健康因子的可行性，展望未來(lái)烘焙食品的研究方向。本文將為新型健康烘焙食品的開發(fā)提供理論借鑒和參考。

Abstract: Bakery products are taking an increasingly high percentage in the diet of Chinese residents. However, bakery foods are high in energy density and low in nutrient density, which does not meet people’s requirement for a healthy diet. Food reformulation in bakery is highly desired to achieve nutrition balance and health promotion function in them, and thus promote upgrading and transformation of China’s baking industry. In this work, the health risk and food safety problems arising from the unbalanced nutrition composition of the traditional bakery products are put forward. The technical bottleneck caused by fat, sugar and salt reduction, and nutrient and healthy factor fortification are discussed. The feasibility of optimizing the nutrition labeling and supplementing healthy factors in bakery products is analyzed and the perspective of future research is addressed. This work provides theoretical reference for the development of innovative health beneficial bakery products.

圖  1   烘焙食品的配方改良策略

Figure  1.   The strategy of reformulation in baking products

表  1   脂肪替代物在烘焙產(chǎn)品中應(yīng)用舉例

Table  1   Examples of fat replacers used in bakery products

烘焙產(chǎn)品烘焙代脂肪類型配方改良方案低脂產(chǎn)品感官品質(zhì)健康功效文獻(xiàn) 海綿蛋糕、瑪芬蛋糕、重油蛋糕脂肪替代品蔗糖聚酯替代起酥油替代比例50%~75%：比容降低、硬度和咀嚼度上升。降低熱量、減少膽固醇吸收[21]油凝膠巴西棕櫚蠟10%+茶籽油90%
替代起酥油替代比例≥50%：面糊持氣性良好，蛋糕孔隙率下降，體積減小，硬度增加。飽和脂肪酸含量減少[28]乳液凝膠高油酸葵花籽油51%+纖維素醚2%，替代黃油替代比例100%：面團(tuán)體積減小、硬度增加，淀粉糊化溫度降低，低脂蛋糕整體感官可接受度略有下降。降低脂肪含量、增加不飽和脂肪酸[7]水凝膠奇亞籽水凝膠3%替代人造奶油替代比例75%：低脂蛋糕比容增加、硬度增大、
水分活度下降，感官評(píng)分總體接受度83%。脂肪含量降低、膳食纖維益生元增加[24]脆餅干、曲奇油凝膠油相（40%）：茶籽油94.5%+茶多酚酯3.0%；水相（60%）：果膠2.5%，混合物替代黃油隨著替代率增加，面團(tuán)變硬，曲奇脆性降低；
替代比例25%、50%：低脂曲奇的延展性、斷裂應(yīng)力、貯藏穩(wěn)定性及感官評(píng)分與黃油曲奇相當(dāng)。抗氧化、零反式脂肪酸[29]乳液凝膠橄欖油37%+菊粉19%+大豆卵
磷脂2%，替代黃油替代比例50%：質(zhì)構(gòu)無(wú)顯著改變、氣孔壁變薄、風(fēng)味
略微變淡，感官評(píng)分略低于未取代組，但仍可接受。脂肪含量降低、膳食纖維益生元增加、脂肪酸組成均衡[23]面包油凝膠羥丙基甲基纖維素2 g+黃原膠1.2 g+植物油120 g（葵花籽油或橄欖油），替代人造奶油替代比例100%：低脂面包氣孔結(jié)構(gòu)減少、硬度有所
增大，但感官評(píng)價(jià)與人造奶油面包相當(dāng)；油凝膠不
影響對(duì)面包脂肪的消化與吸收。飽和脂肪酸減少、不飽和脂肪酸含量增加[30]水凝膠奇亞籽粉（含膳食纖維
33 g/100 g），替代棕櫚油低脂面團(tuán)變軟、粘彈性降低，酵母活力增強(qiáng)；
替代率25%：促進(jìn)發(fā)酵，面包體積48 h達(dá)到最大，
質(zhì)地松軟。脂肪含量減少、脂肪酸組成得到改善[25]乳液凝膠單甘酯2.7%+葵花籽油
42.1%+水55.2%替代棕櫚油低脂面團(tuán)的水分活度無(wú)變化，但表面變硬、不易
發(fā)酵；低脂面包比容增大、硬度降低；儲(chǔ)藏期的
老化現(xiàn)象得到延緩。脂肪含量減少、飽和脂肪酸含量降低[22]

表  2   功能性甜味劑在烘焙產(chǎn)品中應(yīng)用舉例

Table  2   Examples of the functional sweeteners used in bakery products

烘焙產(chǎn)品蔗糖替代方案應(yīng)用效果健康功效文獻(xiàn) 紙杯蛋糕紙杯蛋糕制作中用D-阿洛酮糖
完全替代蔗糖不延遲淀粉凝膠化溫度、烘焙過(guò)程的失重減少，
延遲焙烤時(shí)間后可達(dá)到相同質(zhì)地和口感。抑制葡萄糖和果糖的吸收，提高胰島素敏感性，減少體內(nèi)脂肪的堆積[33]曲奇餅干低聚木糖添加量1.4%增加烘焙特征，如焦糖風(fēng)味、色澤、酥脆度，甜度增加，
增強(qiáng)風(fēng)味。增加益生因子[34]瑪芬蛋糕甜葉菊苷A+膳食纖維替代
30%蔗糖甜葉菊苷A+菊粉（或聚葡萄糖）組蛋糕在質(zhì)構(gòu)、
色澤和感官評(píng)價(jià)得分無(wú)顯著差異。能量降低6 kJ/100 kJ；
膳食纖維增加7 g/100 g[35]無(wú)糖甜面包用木糖醇替代蔗糖，添加量10%、15%、20%20%：面粉峰值粘度提高，有利于淀粉糊化；
5%：面團(tuán)形成和穩(wěn)定時(shí)間延長(zhǎng)；
10%：面團(tuán)延展性提高，面包彈性增加、硬度下降；
10%、15%：感官評(píng)分優(yōu)于對(duì)照組。甜度1.2倍，低熱量，不致齲齒[36]無(wú)糖海綿蛋糕分別采用一定量的麥芽糖醇、
甘露糖醇、木糖醇、山梨糖醇、
異麥芽糖、低聚果糖聚葡萄糖
完全替代蔗糖木糖醇：感官評(píng)分與蔗糖組相近，甜度、后味、
蛋糕外觀形狀優(yōu)于蔗糖組，但色澤較淺，不能產(chǎn)生美
拉德反應(yīng)；
麥芽糖醇：感官評(píng)分略低于木糖醇組；
甘露糖醇：感官評(píng)分最低，不可接受。木糖醇：甜度1.2倍，微清涼口感；
麥芽糖醇：甜度75%～95%，口感柔和。兩者均低熱量、不致
齲齒[37]酥性餅干甘露糖醇替代75%蔗糖面團(tuán)硬度增加，餅干延展性和感官品質(zhì)變差，同時(shí)添加10%酸面團(tuán)后面團(tuán)的硬度、膠著性、回復(fù)性及餅干的硬度、甜度和風(fēng)味得到改善。升糖指數(shù)降低[38]

表  3   烘焙產(chǎn)品的減鹽方案

Table  3   Strategy of salt reduction in bakery products

減鹽策略烘焙產(chǎn)品實(shí)施方案應(yīng)用效果文獻(xiàn) 逐步控鹽法式面包三年內(nèi)，對(duì)22個(gè)面包店實(shí)施減鹽實(shí)驗(yàn)，將面包中NaCl含量逐漸減少30%：1~3月每月減少10%，4~36月維持這一低鹽
水平。面包中鹽含量從1.7 g/100 g降至1.1 g/100 g，不影響消費(fèi)者的接受度和
烘焙產(chǎn)品的銷量。[39]非鈉鹽替
代面包KCl替代面包中20%~30%的NaCl。不會(huì)產(chǎn)生金屬味或苦味，有利于改善鉀元素的攝入。[39]面包KCl、MgCl2和CaCl2單一或
混合物替代50%NaCl。二價(jià)陽(yáng)離子對(duì)面團(tuán)和面包品質(zhì)的影響更大，鈣離子降低發(fā)酵面團(tuán)的粘合性，鉀鹽不影響面團(tuán)的粘附性和延伸性。KCl替代50%NaCl不影響面包氣孔結(jié)構(gòu)、面包皮硬度和感官品質(zhì)接受度。[40]面包海鹽（低鈉鹽，含NaCl、KCl、MgCl2）完全替代面包中的NaCl。增加面團(tuán)吸水性；面團(tuán)延伸性提高，面包體積增大；面包色澤加深，游離糖和孔隙率降低；不影響酵母發(fā)酵活性。添加0.5%海鹽的低鈉面包品質(zhì)最佳。[41]多感官協(xié)同增強(qiáng)咸味感知法棍添加酸面團(tuán)：干酸面團(tuán)0%~10%+NaCl 0%~0.25%，旋轉(zhuǎn)中心組合實(shí)驗(yàn)設(shè)計(jì)。添加酸面團(tuán)降低鈉鹽不影響產(chǎn)品的比容、外形和質(zhì)構(gòu)；干酸面團(tuán)添加量5%時(shí)，NaCl減少用量17%~45%，法棍的感官品質(zhì)最佳。[42]面包添加風(fēng)味增強(qiáng)劑動(dòng)物蛋
白酶解物。蛋白酶解物添加量5.85%時(shí)發(fā)酵速率略降低，面包體積不變，但硬度增大、粘附性降低，添加蛋白酶解物能顯著提高面包咸度。發(fā)酵糖、海鹽、干酸面團(tuán)協(xié)同作用可在不影響面包咸味的前提下使NaCl用量減少到0.02%。[43, 44]法式咸面包降低NaCl用量+添加
維生素B4。提高消費(fèi)者對(duì)面包咸味的感知，可在不影響面包咸味的前提下替代25%NaCl。減鹽-VitB4強(qiáng)化面包在風(fēng)味、質(zhì)構(gòu)和價(jià)格上與傳統(tǒng)面包相當(dāng)。[45]

表  4   營(yíng)養(yǎng)和功能因子強(qiáng)化提升烘焙食品營(yíng)養(yǎng)素密度的方案

Table  4   Strategies of enhancement of nutritive density in bakery products by fortification of nutrients and functional components

烘焙產(chǎn)品營(yíng)養(yǎng)素/健康因子實(shí)施方案產(chǎn)品感官品質(zhì)營(yíng)養(yǎng)與健康功效文獻(xiàn) 無(wú)麩質(zhì)蛋糕全豆粉稻米粉與兩種豆粉（綠豆和豇豆）按80:20，65:35和50:50的比例混合制備無(wú)麩質(zhì)蛋糕。增加豆粉比例造成蛋糕比容下降、氣孔減少、硬度增大、外表塌陷；豆粉與稻米粉質(zhì)量1:1時(shí)蛋糕結(jié)構(gòu)穩(wěn)定，感官評(píng)分與小麥蛋糕相當(dāng)。增加蛋白質(zhì)、膳食纖維和微量元素含量[49]無(wú)麩質(zhì)面包豆類分離蛋白分別用大豆分離蛋白濃縮液、豌豆分離蛋白或羽扇豆蛋白替代無(wú)麩質(zhì)面包配方中6.7%的淀粉和3.3%的果膠。大豆蛋白：增加面團(tuán)存儲(chǔ)和損耗模量，面包體積減小，氣孔密度降低，直徑>5 mm的氣孔增多，面包皮色澤加深；豌豆蛋白、羽扇豆蛋白：與大豆蛋白組相似，但不影響面包比容。增加蛋白質(zhì)含量，優(yōu)化氨基酸組成[51]全麥面包豆莢粉綠豆、豌豆、牧豆全莢粉分別替代全麥面包配方中20%的全麥粉。綠豆和豌豆面包蛋白含量高，牧豆面包纖維含量高。牧豆面包比容與全麥面包相比，近降低7%。以上添加豆莢粉面包感官可接受度高。增加蛋白質(zhì)、膳食纖維和多酚類物質(zhì)[50]白面包膳食纖維分別添加角豆纖維、豌豆纖維、菊粉替代3%小麥粉。添加纖維粉使得面包更松軟，面包比容略低，感官評(píng)分6.1~6.3（對(duì)照6.8），總體可接受。添加角豆纖維和菊粉可改善面團(tuán)發(fā)酵進(jìn)程。補(bǔ)充膳食纖維[52]面包益生菌乳酸菌L. acidophilus經(jīng)乳清蛋白包埋后，按1%濃度分散于5%淀粉溶液，形成含有益生菌的可食涂抹液，涂膜于半熟面包表面，180 ℃烘焙16 min。涂抹層一定程度上影響面包氣孔結(jié)構(gòu)、增加水分活度和降低斷裂應(yīng)力，但感官評(píng)分可接受度高。烘焙和儲(chǔ)藏24 h后活菌數(shù)為7 lg CFU/70 g 面包。補(bǔ)充益生菌[53]面包天然抗氧化成分向全麥面包配方中添加一定量綠茶粉。添加量1 g綠茶粉/100 g面粉時(shí)，面包比容、硬度、回彈力不受影響，面包貯藏期的氧化穩(wěn)定性提高?？棺杂苫趸痆54]綠茶兒茶素萃取組分（兒茶素>65%）按一定比例添加面包
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